Trentham Falls, Victoria, Australia - An easy day trip from Melbourne for families

Trentham Falls

Trentham Falls is one of Victoria’s most spectacular waterfalls and boasts Victoria’s highest single drop of around 32 metres. The waterfall is only a couple of kilometres out of Trentham in the Coliban Scenic Reserve between Daylesford and the the Macedon Ranges and about an hour’s drive from Melbourne.

The top viewing platform is only 70 metres from the car park and the scenic picnic reserve. The walk down to the lower falls is officially closed however you may see a constant stream of walkers heading down to the what is arguably the best view of the waterfall. The cooler months are probably the best time to visit because the Coliban river will probably have a constant flow that will showcase he best cascade over the falls. It can dry up a bit in the summer.

This is an easy accessible waterfalls for families with small kids. However the path to the lower falls is not maintained and is prone to landslips so if you do risk it take care.



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Trentham Falls on Parks Vic

Olinda Falls, Victoria, Australia - A Day Trip From Melbourne for everybody (and families)

Olinda Falls

Olinda Falls in the Dandenong Ranges is about one hour's drive from Melbourne. Wonderful for a family day trip from Melbourne. The falls are a short shady walk under the cool rain forest canopy.

It is an easy 800 metre walk for families with small children. It is a beautiful green walk to the falls but, let's face it, they're not the most spectacular falls in the world. Iguazu should feel pretty safe with its mantle as one of the world's most scenic falls. Even Turpins Falls, check out last video, north of Melbourne makes this one look little more than a splash and trickle.

However as a destination for a bush walk and to get a taste of the great Aussie bush it is a day well spent. Because of its accessibility from Melbourne the lower reaches of the Dandenong Ranges National Park can overflow with visitors so just keep driving for a few minutes more to get to the Olinda Falls reserve. It won't be anywhere near as crowded and you will be rewarded with seeing some of the largest trees in the world - the mountain ash.



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Olinda Falls on Visit Dandenong Ranges

Road trip to Mount Fuji - Kukuna Resort and Spa

It's a fairly straightforward drive from Matsumoto to Kawaguchiko (Mt Fuji) of about 2 hours. Mount Fuji is visible from the road from about 100km away. I can't recall anything I've seen from a 100 kays before? Certainly not from ground level.

We're staying at the Kukuna Resort and Spa. It wasn't our first choice, we left booking too late, but our room has a tub on the balcony. That was the main thing we wanted, a tub with a view, and, oh my, it did not disappoint.

We were issued with "resort wear" for out stay. Unlike most ryokans this place is set up like a tropical resort so instead of the usual yukata we have loose fitting smocks and trousers. Loose fitting is very good for the very pregnant Michelle. Georgia got a mu-mu type thing.

In the foyer outside our room is a bar set up with snacks and drinks for us to have during the day. We also get the traditional welcome snack and tea when we get to the room.

The room is a typical tatami mat room but one entire wall is a window. Apparently there is a bloody great volcano out there. And a lake. The view is quite amazing. The balcony has privacy screens either side so we can nude up no worries for the onsen. If I have one complaint it is the glass door is too clean. I was going in and out when Michelle closed the door, I didn't notice and walked right into it. Hard. I left a face imprint on the glass.
The room has a bathroom, actually a sink room, the bath is on the balcony, and the usual Japanese Starship Enterprise heated toilet. So even if it is freezing, and there is some ice on the ground outside, you have to tub it in the onsen on the balcony.

Even staying at a resort where almost everything is catered for we wanted some snacks so we went for a drive into town and went to one of the convenience stores for supplies. Even car parks have a pretty reasonable view of Fuji.

Jigokudani Monkey Park to Matsumoto - Richmond Hotel

The last time we drove the hour and half from Yudanaka to Matsumoto it was an overcast day but by the time we got to Matsumoto the snow had begun to dump.  We could barely find the rental car agency to drop off the car so much snow had fallen. This time it was fine all the way. Beautiful clear skies. We were going to see Matsumoto not covered in a blanket of snow. That was kind of disappointing though. Everything looks prettier covered in a blanket of snow. See Matsumoto Castle on our last trip in 2010 for example.

We stayed at the Richmond Hotel in Matsumoto again. Centrally located not far from shops, restaurants, transport and attractions like Matsumoto castle. We've stayed here twice now because it is a very good reasonably priced hotel - for both couples and families.

View from our room on the 4th floor

The staff were very helpful. Checking in required using an ATM like machine but the receptionist helped us through the, easy, process. They also advised on local restaurants. The car park attendant was very friendly and helpful. Very typical of older guys in service jobs. They love kids. He gave Georgia a little hand made plastic bead cat key ring which has gone right in to her bag of treasures.

Georgia running down the hall

Like most Japanese business hotels the rooms was tiny. We had just enough room to squeeze in a travel cot for Georgia in a deluxe double room. We probably couldn't fit a cot into a double room. The rooms were spotlessly clean and the beds were very comfortable. The rooms have the usual hotel mod cons; WiFi (and Ethernet), TV, Air con and mini-bar. Video on demand is available too if you need to see that Japanese tentacle porn. Coin laundries are on a couple of floors. The laundry rooms also have a couple of vending machines. I just had to buy a small jar of sake from the vending machine for 200 yen.

Plenty of room. Travel cot and desk behind me

The bathroom was tight but fine.

A good western style breakfast was available at the restaurant / cafe downstairs at a discounted rate for hotel guests.

Parking is available at the hotel for about 1200 yen per day.

Laundry and beer/sake vending machines

The Richmond Hotel is a very good option for a couple of days. We'd stay there again if we visit Matsumoto. It is very cheap. Most of the business hotels are cheap. We paid about 10000 Yen per night.That's around AU$100 depending on the exchange rate. We've rarely stayed in hotels or motels in Australia of this standard for as little as this. Japan can be surprisingly cheap. I think most people expect that Ryokan rates are standard. We don't often pay as much as 50000 Yen *cough* per night like Kokuya the night before. To be fair Kokuya is a luxury ryokan with private onsen on the balcony and Michelin standard dinner and breakfast included. Why, if you say it like that it sounds like a dead set bargain. Ahem. Anyway, the Richmond Hotel is cheap.

Watching a movie

Richmond Hotel Matsumoto

Hotel from street at night sans snow. Last time we were here there were snow drifts everywhere

Breakfast and sayonara to Kokuya

It snowed over night so there was a light dusting of snow over our balcony. This bodes well because we had decided to go see the snow monkeys again. Our next stop will be Matsumoto and it's not more than a couple of hours there from Yudanaka so we reckon we have enough time to see the monkeys again. Having said that we still need to give ourselves some time to get to Matsumoto because the last time we did this drive we drove into Matsumoto in near blizzard conditions and struggled to find the car rental drop off before it closed. That time we got to the car rental place within five minutes of closing but the guys were cool enough to drop us back at our hotel. I'm pretty sure they'd have found our frozen corpses in the Spring thaw if we'd attempted getting to our hotel by ourselves. Sometimes the service in Japan can be extraordinary. We're not dropping the car at Matsumoto this time so we won't be as stressed about getting there at certain time.

But before we go off gallivanting over the countryside we had to have our last dip in the onsen, breakfast and then check out of the ryokan. There's never enough time in the mornings for us sleepyheads to have a long soak in the tub. We have to have breakfast over and done by 9 AM and checked out by 10. With the breakfast spreads as they are you do not want to miss breakfast under any circumstances.

Again, breakfast is special. I actually struggle making a reasonable attempt to try everything. I'm usually just a toast and cereal kind of guy and I really have trouble coping with more than that. But you have to try. Michelle has no problems. I think she loves Japanese breakfast more than just about anything.

We thanked our delightful breakfast, and dinner, servers. Those women are extraordinary. They're there first thing in the morning serving us breakfast and still there last thing in the evenings serving us dinner.

After breakfast we finish packing and load the car which has magically appeared in front of the lobby again. Georgia got to say hello to a little doggy that belongs to one of the staff or the ryokan. After a few photos in front of the Ryokan we wave bye bye to our wonderful hostess and drive about 100 metres up the road to a small shrine and stairway for more photos. At this rate it will take us about 3 hours for the 10 minute drive to the snow monkey park. But Georgia in her parka and little red boots is worth a photo or two at every opportunity.

On the road to Yudanaka Shibu Onsen

Kilometre wise the next leg of our trip isn't far. Just over 130 km. According to Google and the GPS it should take about 3 hours though. Probably due to the depressingly slow speed limits and maybe some windy mountain roads.

The route takes us north and loops around anti-clockwise via the ski towns of Yuzawa and Nozawa Onsen. We stayed and skied in Nozawa the last time we were in Japan in 2010. I was hoping to catch a glimpse on the way through. However we didn't have time to make a detour and check it out. As always we were late leaving and hoped to get to Shibu Onsen before dark - and dinner.

A good half the drive is on big highways that cut through and around some pretty spectacular mountains. There's a couple of big ski resorts on the way. Yuzawa has a number of multi story hotels either side of the highway for example. They certainly get a lot of snow in this part of Japan. Average sized house almost disappear into drifts and the some parts of the road go through canyons of cleared snow that could be 10 metres deep.

Georgia and Michelle slept through most of the interesting part. Well, interesting if you find monstrous snow drifts everywhere fascinating. We stopped for a break near the turn-off to Nozawa, at a Lawson Station in a field of snow. Snow is not the only thing I find endlessly fascinating. I love the variety of products they stock at Lawson.


Georgia just wanted chips and wanted nothing more than to sit down in the carpark and share her chips with me.

Love the red boots.
Note the bag of goodies from Osenkaku behind her.

Kan-etsu tunnel (the longest road tunnel in Japan)

I mentioned in a previous post that the best vending machine coffee I've ever had was from a road side stop. Just before you enter the Kan-etsu Tunnel is a road side rest area which includes a ramen bar and a shit load of vending machines including the coffee machine that dispensed a reasonably good coffee and, my favourite, the hot food vending machine.

Wall to wall vending machines

I really dig the hotdogs

Oh my... a decent coffee out of a vending machine

The Kan-etsu Tunnel is the longest road tunnel in Japan. At 11 km it is the about 10th longest in the world. It seems to go on and on and on.

We made a video. An epic 1 min and 4 seconds...

If you click on the map below you can get to Google street view and virtually drive through the tunnel.


View A drive around central Honshu - March 2013 in a larger map

On the road to Takaragawa Onsen

One happy traveller

On Google maps it looked like there were two ways to get to Takaragawa Onsen from Nikko. A shorter northern route over the mountains and a longer southern route that looped around west then north to Takaragawa. Some roads across the mountains are closed in winter. We knew this from the last time we visited Japan. There were two roads into Shirahone Onsen, only one was open to traffic in the Winter. I had a sneaky suspicion that would be the case here so we decided to go to the visitors information centre in Nikko and ask. I think the guy there said he didn't know about the northern route or it was closed. His English wasn't great and my Japanese is non-existent. Either way he did indicate that I should take the longer southern route.

Supply stop

We were kind of disappointed we couldn't take the mountain route but it was better to be safe than sorry. We would be spending plenty of time in the mountains anyway. Or we hoped so. We'd also be leaving Tochigi Prefecture and going to Gunma Prefecture.

Most of the way was freeway/tollway/expressway again until we turned off for Minakami. Then we hit snow, real snow, for the first time. It wasn't snowing but there were still huge drifts each side of the road and covering trees and houses. Finally we were back in the snowy countryside of our last trip to Japan. I know if you're from a climate where you get big snow drifts an blizzards every Winter it can be mundane or a pain in the arse but for us from sunny Australia, where we rarely see snow like this, it is a Winter wonderland.

Come on Michelle, don't be shy

That's better. Starbucks iced latte found in all good convenience store fridges

The town of Minakami is in a long narrow valley that stretches for miles. It is on the train line so even though it feels isolated it is reachable from civilisation. We stopped at a Yamazaki, Bread & Food, to pick up supplies. Isolated Ryokans can be limited in the junk food they carry, if any, so we wanted to stock up on chocolate and snacks and yoghurt and bananas for Georgia. We've been looking for gloves for Georgia too. We tried in Australia and it was too soon. By the time we got to Tokyo it was too late. We're hoping, in a ski resort (Minakami is a ski resort), we might be able to finally find gloves in small child sizes. Now that there is so much snow on the ground gloves will be essential.

After passing though Minakami we're directed off the main road up a slight incline and winds into the hills. The road we're following has a concrete centre line with what appears to be brass or metal plugs. I can only assume they stick lane dividers into the holes which are every few metres? God know why though, because the road is fairly narrow. After a few bends another another steep valley opens up but there is more of a flood plain.The river appears wider at this point but it is hard to tell where fields begin and the river ends because it is all covered with snow and ice. We drop down to valley floor and cross a bridge into the tiny snow drift covered hamlet of Fujiwara. We take a left at yet another valley fork and follow the river to Takaragawa Onsen. This valley is steeper and closer. It is almost more like a canyon. Takaragawa Onsen is the end of the road and seemed to be only a collection of a couple of hotels. I'm not sure if all the hotels are the one complex or not but our hotel is called Osenkaku Ryokan. The car park of our hotel is the end of the road as far as our GPS is concerned. It looks like one road in, one road out. The hotel is perched above and along the river, the Takaraga, that cuts through the valley.

On the road to Nikko

Thanks to booking the car through Tocoo, picking up the car from Nissan was a breeze. All the major car manufacturers have their own rental car companies. Last time we were here we rented through Mazda (via Tocoo) and Toyota (direct with Toyota). This time we're trying Nissan mainly because they're the only one that offers an English language GPS in the car. Tocoo, though, is a rental car booking agency that makes the reservation for you. Not that long ago only Toyota in Hokkaido had a English language booking web page so Tocoo was almost essential. Now they're still convenient because the discount through Tocoo is excellent. Once we'd made the reservation all we had to do was turn up and pick up the car.

We have a Nissan Bluebird Sylphy. Modern cars are like the Tardis. They seem to get smaller on the outside but on the inside you can fit in an Olympic sized swimming pool. The Sylphy is slightly bigger than necessary in Japan, smaller cars are easier to park, but I was sure we will need the extra boot space - bags, pram, travel cot etc. The child seat for Georgia is a bit unusual. It has a padded table like thing that drops on over her lap and against her tummy and it is held in place by velcro tabs and the adult seat belt which wraps around and clicks in to the usual clasp. There's no 5 point harness but it seems to do the trick. Georgia seems happy enough in it. The other option we go for are snow tyres. Last time they were essential. The weather doesn't look too bad but you never know whether or not we'll get a dump in the mountains. Snow dump by the way. Of course I will be taking a dump in the mountains as well but we don't need snow tyres for that. Won't crap outside either, too cold. I will use heated toilets.

The car doesn't have a key. Just a remote for unlocking the doors. You just have to have the remote on you to start the car. It takes a bit of getting used to. Thankfully the Japanese had the foresight of choosing right-hand drive vehicles just so that when we turned up I didn't have to engage my left-hand drive brain. Not having to think while driving is a bonus. The English GPS is quite handy. Last time we could spend 10 minutes programming the destination into the bloody thing. Most of the time spent trying to navigate to the main menu. With English menus all we had to do was go to the phone number input screen, enter the phone number of our destination, a list of possible routes would come up and we'd choose the fastest and bang, off we'd go following the instructions of the Japanese lady with sultry English voice.

The first thing the GPS had to do, after we picked up our bags at the hotel, was get us to the express way north. It's only 2 hours to Nikko from Tokyo. The expressway entrance was only a couple of kay from the hotel and yes I missed the first entrance and had to rely on the GPS to get us back on track. Once we were on the expressway it was pretty much the one expressway the whole way. Expressway is a bit of a misnomer in Japan. The maximum speed limit is 80 kph. In practice though it seems higher. There were many cars zooming past us in excess of 100 kph.

We were following a river on a raised express way out of Tokyo. In cities like Sydney the high rise gives way to suburbia quite soon and you have kilometre after kilometre of suburban homes. In Tokyo the high rise seems to go on for ever. It made us realise how you can cram 4 or 5 times the population of Sydney into an area about the same size as Sydney. Some of the outlying regions of Tokyo ain't pretty. In fact it looks pretty grey, concrete and unappealing. That is, unappealing to live there. To drive through it is quite fascinating. We often notice these tall structures in the distance. 4 or 5 tall towers, maybe 50 metres or more high, holding up a net. When we get close enough we realise that it is a golf driving range. Not much room for golf courses so they have many driving ranges. A driving range takes up about as much space as a small baseball stadium.

The expressways in Japan are tollways. It is quite expensive to travel a couple of hours on one. Y2000 ($20) to Y4000 ($40). Even when you leave the main expressway you might switch to a minor road that is still multi-lane expressway and that can also cost $1 to $3. We always know when we're approaching a toll point because the GPS tells us that we are and it will cost us so many yen. The car also has an ETC (Electronic Toll Collection) device that helpfully beeps and says E.T.C then a bunch of Japanese when we approach a toll booth. We don't have an ETC card so we pay cash.

There are many many roadside rest areas that can have as much in the way of facilities as a Starbucks or Mos Burger to smaller ones that may just have a few vending machines. They seem to come up every 20 or 30 kilometres so if you need a snack or coffee you don't have long to wait between potential stops. We stopped at one and I got a coffee out of a machine. It was the best damned vending machine coffee I've ever had. You can choose the strength of the coffee, how much milk and how sweet.

Half the fun for me of a road trip is the road trip. I love watching the scenery unfold. We go from heavily urban hi-rise to semi-rural and then the mountains appear. There's nothing like snow capped peaks appearing in front of you to remind you that you're not in Oz any more. The road itself is fascinating to me. The signs, the street furniture and the tunnels. In Japan they just blast right through mountains and hills. Some tunnels are only hundreds of metre long, others are kilometres. After a couple of tunnels Georgia pipes up from the back with "night time". We tell her it is a tunnel, so every time we go through a tunnel after that Georgia will say "another one" or just "tunnel". I also keep myself amused by counting down how close we're getting to Fukushima. We're heading north towards Fukushima. Fukushima is where the nuclear reactor melted down after the tsunami a couple of years ago. I know we'll eventually turn off but I'm looking forward to see how close we'll get. I first see the Fukushima sign at about 240 km, then it slowly ticks down to about 120 when we turn off the express way to Fukushima and on to the road to Nikko. I'm sure I felt a tickling in the balls from the radiation. It is a reminder, however, that this country has earthquakes with reasonable regularity. We're only days away from the anniversary of the 2011 tsunami.

Eventually we rolled into Nikko. Nikko seems like a long narrow town. It appears to be only a couple of blocks wide but it is kilometres long. Nikko is famous for its World Heritage listed temples but they're not immediately obvious. I think they're a little bit out of town. We were due to do some clothes washing after 5 days in Japan so I'd done some research as to whether there was a coin laundry in Nikko. Nikko is a highly visited tourist town so we assumed there had to be a coin laundry in town, somewhere. Nothing in the guide books but I eventually found a couple of apparent laundrys on-line but the info was all in Japanese so I wasn't really certain if they were laundrys or not. As it was as we drove into town we drove right past a big coin laundry. It stood out like dog's balls. Crisis averted. We will be able to do the washing.  Ms GPS found our hotel about 2 blocks from the laundry. Convenient too.

Georgia's first train ride

On Friday we thought we'd attempt an excursion into the city, haircuts and Medicare, with Georgia. She only grizzled a bit while I was in the Medicare office and the guy serving offered to do the paper work for me so I could go. Nice one Georgia.