Hiyama

Sure Japan's known for fish and sushi but Japan is also home to the best beef in the world. Most definitely did we want to go to somewhere that specialises in beef. Every cuisine known to man is available in Tokyo so we were reasonably certain we could find a place that served a decent "steak" in Tokyo. I am lucky to have the winning combination of Michelle and Michelin Guide. Michelle spends plenty of time researching just what is available, where and when. All I have to do is find the place. Tonight we're going to attempt Sukiyaki. I do almost no research so I am always surprised and delighted by what we discover. All I know is that Sukiyaki is some way of preparing steak.

Michelle decides on Hiyama because it seems to be reasonably close but not in Ginza. It is in Nihonbashi but it is only few minutes away on the train. We could probably walk there if we had a spare half hour or so. Even so we decide to catch a taxi much to the delight of Georgia. If she is reluctant to do something we say we're catching a taxi and she drops everything to go. Our taxi driver drops us off near the restaurant and points in the general direction of the place. The problem with Japanese addresses is it is almost impossible to find the exact address unless you know where actual place is. We usually have to wander around the block till we find the place. Building numbers aren't necessarily sequential. They can be, but not always. So we did our usual wandering up and down alleys. We found some trucks with the logo for the restaurant parked in the alley. Hiyama is connected to a butcher and the butcher shop is supposed to be above or next to the restaurant so we knew we had to be close. Of course the restaurant was back around the corner on the main road more or less where the taxi driver had gestured to.

The building was nondescript but the entrance to the restaurant was distinctive. A stone garden entrance leading to a wooden staircase. A big solid oak like wooden staircase. I ducked up the stairs and was confronted by a woman and and older man who seemed surprised to see me appear. I had a moment of doubt and asked "Hiyama?" They both chorused "Hai, hai" so I asked about a table for two and a baby. They seemed to understand but I asked them over to the stairs and pointed to Michelle and Georgia. Again they said "hai" and I relaxed. The older man produced list of courses and prices and I said "hai".

We took off our shoes and our hostess lead us down and around a couple of corridors and doorways, and a group of kneeling women who all bowed and chorused "irasshaimase", to our private dining room. In the room was a low table, about shin height, and a number of pillows. Great, I have get on my knees. Our hostess produced the menu listing the available courses (Sukiyaki, steak, Japanese, shabu-shabu). We decided on Sukiyaki because that is the speciality of the house. When in Rome.

Tea was poured, a bowl and spoon were produced for Georgia and our feast began. Sukiyaki is prepared at the table. Plates of vegetables and steak were brought to the table. The steaks a big thinly sliced wagyu. We chose the most expensive "marbled" beef. As I mentioned, Japanese beef is the best so why not go with the best of the best. We certainly can't get this at home. Close but not close enough. The cooker was right tthere on the table too. Huge chicken eggs were cracked into bowls by our hostess and they were beaten. I thought they were going to poured onto the hot plate or something, an omelette maybe? Oh no indeed not. Our hostess fills the bowl with meat and some sauce and some of the veggies and the egg mixture becomes a kind of rich rich sauce that coats the meat. The meat is succulent and delicious and rich. The egg just enhances the richness and flavour. This was nothing like I was expecting.

I think three times we go though this process with slightly different cuts of meat, veggies and sauces. Each time it is as good as the last. Georgia isn't forgotten and our hostess brings her rice and noodles and Georgia also shares our meat and veggies. Our hostess is a lovely woman and enjoys interacting with Georgia. She even crawls around to Georgia and feed Georgie some rice and noodles.  Georgia looks a little bewildered but she goes with the flow. This is turning out to be another of the special experiences we seem to extract out of Japan. If you wonder why we've come back here or why we'd bring Georgia to Japan it is for moments like this. The food is wonderful, the people are brilliant and the surroundings special and just a little bit exotic. The is experience with a capital E.

Just when I've started to feel bloated it is time for the rice, soup and dessert. I'm told I must have some of the rice because it is special Japanese rice. Japanese rice is special. I can take or leave rice but Japanese rice is a must try. Even if you're feeling bloated.

Considering that we have a private dining room with a hostess assigned to us and we had the choicest cut of beef in a one Michelin starred restaurant in Tokyo the bill wasn't as much as you would think. Take a stab and leave a comment. I'll let you know if you're close. Not as expensive as Sushi and probably nowhere near as expensive as something similar, if it existed, in Sydney. Hint: the menu is on their webpage.

Packing up and leaving topped off the night. The Japanese love little Georgia. I think it is her large eyes. Some old guy in the street once said she was like a doll. All the hostesses line the corridor to say goodbye. They wave and giggle with Georgia and there are many "oohs" and "aahs". Georgia finally overcomes her shyness a bit to wave goodbye which sets off a dozen hostesses laughing and waving and saying bye bye.

Two Michelin starred restaurants in one day. Things are looking up. I was worried yesterday we wouldn't get to one. We're back on schedule. We've had a good day.

Sushi Kanesaka

After one full day of trying to get into Michelin sushi places I was almost a broken man. We couldn't get in anywhere. Yesterday I almost begged Michelle to stop the relentless pursuit of perfection and just grab some sushi, anywhere. I mean, we're in Tokyo. The average sushi has got to be better than average at home? I'm so glad she can be stubborn sometimes. Lunch today was at Sushi Kanesaka. A small place hidden in the basement of a nondescript building at the bottom end of Ginza, near Shiodome. We even turned up shortly after they'd opened at 11.30am thinking that we'd have more chance if we got in early. We'd dropped in here yesterday trying to get dinner but, again, Georgia was the sticking point. Chef Shinji Kanesaka, though, suggested we could come back for lunch. Really I asked? And he said sure. I doubt he expected us to front up the very next day. And we did, and he was a man of his word. His offsiders looked a little dubious but as soon as we sat down they thawed a little too.

At the end of our lunch Shinji Kanesaka popped over the counter to say goodbye and put his hat on Georgia's head for the photo.

Sushi Kanesaka has been double starred (2 Michelin stars) in the past, however I think at the moment he has been awarded only one star. Michelle and I discussed this later. We've found that while the 2 and 3 star places are sublime, sometimes they can over finesse or try for too much individuality and that can distract from a great sushi experience. Sometimes the 1 star places are more "honest" maybe, and the sushi experience can be as great as a 2 or 3 without the bells and whistles.

Grilled kobashira - Scallops

We sat down at the counter right in front of Kanesaka. Georgia sat between us. We were asked if we wanted the short set or the long. That was a no brainer. The long course of course. After asking us if we could eat anything we were away. Typically sushi meals start of with some sashimi, then a couple of possibly cooked pieces of fish, then the nigiri sushi and finally miso soup, rice and a dessert. It is formulaic in that the style doesn't change much but the content is usually seasonal. The menu can be completely different on a day to day basis. Last time we were in Tokyo it was February so many sushi joints would serve up variations of moon fish liver. Fish foie gras. I asked Kanesaka if it was still the season for moon fish but, sadly, no. But then again there could be something equally as delicious now that isn't available in February. Did I say delicious? I could mean weird. Think of sperm. Hold that thought, I'll get back to that in a later post.

Yummy

Baby shrimp and uni - sea urchin roe

As you may or may not know our little 2 year old Georgia is a sushi connoisseur. She loves it. Mostly she loves salmon sushi but she loves many many (if there are more than a few of anything Georgia will say "many many" :) ) types of raw fish. We asked Kanesaka for a couple of small pieces of sushi which he was happy to oblige. In the meantime we our dishes which were starting to come in quick succession. Unfortunately for Michelle and me Georgia has our taste. She likes what we do. When a small dish of raw shrimp topped with sea urchin roe appears of course she loves it. We just have to get used to having smaller portions ourselves I guess. Kanesaka was watching with an amused expression his face so it wasn't long before a small dish of raw shrimp is placed in front of Georgia for her. The shrimp and roe, by the way, are oh so delicious.

Hairy crab

More shrimp please

We were lucky enough to be served by Chef Kanesaka himself. It was a reasonably quiet lunch and there were only a couple of other diners. If all 14 seats are taken up Kanesaka looks after one end of the counter and his apprentice the other. As it was the apprentice was only setting up the other end for the evening and helping Kanesaka. At one point the apprentice was making too much noise and Kanesaka turned around a told gave him a short "Kudasai" (please).

Even the cooked fish is to die for

Slicing the bonito

Georgia tried just about everything and loved it but we had to keep re-ordering the tuna sushi. She got hers before we did by the way. It amused Kanesaka how she kept putting it away. Each piece of sushi he made for Georgia was made with the same care and attention to detail as he did for every other customer. The only concession he made was to make them slightly smaller for little hands and mouth.

Bonito

Knife magic turning chunks of tuna into... something wonderful.

What makes or breaks sushi is the rice. Every sushi chef has his, most are men but Shinji told us there are a few women now, own way of preparing the rice. Different vinegars, some more some less, salty or less salty, al dente or slightly softer. Kanesaka's was excellent. Slightly al dente and you can feel every grain and not too vinegary or salty.

Chu-toro tuna

Blue fin tuna

For people like us this is the ultimate in dining experience. It isn't just the food, although it is to die for, it is the whole theatre of the occasion. What really makes it for us is having Georgia there with us. We hoped that a trip to Japan and a visit to one of these sushi places would work with her and it has. In spades. We smile and laugh at her enthusiasm for the sushi. She is shy at first but gradually warms to Kanesaka and by the time we're ready to go she can wave goodbye to him. It has been sensational. Every dish that is served makes me want to smile and cry at the same time. An emotional business eating food is sometimes.

Chu-toro

The fattiest most succulent o-toro tuna ever.

As I said, what an experience. Shinji Kanesaka is a really affable guy. He really made us feel welcome. I know he has apparently lost one star but this was as good a sushi meal as we've had in Tokyo. We've eaten at 3 starred places before (Sushi Saito for one) and we liked it here as much. I've read that Saito is actually a former apprentice of Kanesaka and Kanesaka is a part owner of Sushi Saito. Small world in sushi circles in Tokyo then. Kanesaka told us that we were very welcome to come again and he looked forward to seeing us again. Georgia may have been the sticking point originally but I think she won him over for us in the end. He was very keen to jump the counter for the traditional photos at the end of the meal. He even gave me his business card for a souvenir. We'll definitely be back.

Sake

Slicing the prawn

Prawn nigiri

Kohada - herring.

Kasugodai - Baby Sea Bream

Mackerel (I think)

A box of gold - uni, sea urchin roe

Uni

A couple more pieces of chu-toro for Georgia. You didn't think she'd get the cheap cuts did you?

Tamago (egg custard) and anago (sea eel). Delicious

Tuna roll. Beautiful tuna and rice rolled in an amazing crispy sheet of seaweed.

Shinji Kanesaka came around to say goodbye.

Sushi Kanesaka